Coffee is a fleeting moment and a fragrance.
--Claudia Roden
It was a pleasant cafe, warm and clean and friendly, and I hung
up my old water-proof on the coat rack to dry and put my worn
and weathered felt hat on the rack above the bench and ordered
a cafe au lait. The waiter brought it and I took out a notebook
from the pocket of the coat and a pencil and started to write.
--Ernest Hemingway
Coffee falls into the stomach...ideas begin to move, things remembered
arrive at full gallop... the shafts of wit start up like sharp-shooters,
similies arise, the paper is covered with ink... - Honore de Balzac
Cafes are an intrinsic part of every day life in Buenos Aires. Portenos -as
the people who live in this portside city is known as- feel cafes are almost
like an extension of their home, study or work environment. Probably some of
the best poems, songs, paintings, business plans, romances and break-ups have
had a Buenos Aires Cafe as their main stage.
Modern or Classic, hip or traditional, shaggy or well staged, the option is as broad as one can imagine.
This is a two century old tradition that started with the flows of European Immigrants. Those origin old continent marks can be traced in our cafes. For example, the great pleasure taken in small strong cups of espresso coffee is without a doubt Italian origin. While the Spanish input can be found in the variety of snack like appetizers known in the Peninsula as Tapas and in Buenos Aires as picada (literally meaning chopped, for it consists in small plates of cold cuts, cheese, veggies, etc) or tablita (because it was sually served in a wooden cutting board). As to the other influence, I
think France is the place; for no other country in the planet worships cafes as a philosophical round table scenario as French and Argentines do.
The combination of those influences together with the very sense of Argentines and portenos created a particular cafe culture that's typical of our capital city.
Visitors from around the globe when visiting Buenos Aires usually delight themselves with great food, but the last place they think that might raise some eyebrows is a cafe, but it happens. After the perfect grilled Argentine steak, the most delicious pasta dish and superb ice cream, the culinary surprises brought by the argentine palate might seem covered. But you haven't tried Buenos Aires flavour until you enjoy an espresso and a tostado. The consistency and rich flavor beheld in the small cup complements perfectly crispy thin bread layers mixed with just a perfect slice of ham and cheese. Within its simplicity this true Argentine combo is a treat to the senses.
Each quarter in the city has its own trademark cafe, some even more than one. Each features a unique and personal style, the conjunction of ambiance and public, those steady customers that regularly come, sit on the same table and have become part of the cafe's spirit. And such is the love and care Argentines have for those coffee houses that the government has come with a cultural patrimony project that preserves those historical and cultural icon places under the concept of Notable Cafes. There are 53 in the city of Buenos Aires, but the list broadens constantly. Cafe Tortoni, La
Giralda, 36 Billiards, La Biela, La Ideal and Bar El Britanico, are just some.
Just a peek into the caf¿ world of Buenos Aires takes us to Cafe Tortoni on Mayo Av. Founded in 1858, is the oldest and most famous cafe in Argentina. Known for being a place that was immortalized by Argentine and world wide artists, writers, poets, musicians, this is not only a great caf¿, but also a living like museum. Alfonsina Storni, a poet, Benito Quinquela Martin, a painter, Baldomero Fernandez Moreno, a poet Carlos Gardel, the tango legend; Federico Garcia Lorca, the Spanish poet and playwright; Luigi Pirandello, the Italian dramatist, and Jorge Luis Borges, the Argentine poet, critic and short-story writer, were some of the bright minds who frequented this gorgeous French style coffe house. Its green marble tables and red leather arm chairs welcome locals and foreigners, famous and anonymous equally for a wonderful experience.
La Giralda, on the worldly famous bookstore avenue of Corrientes is an intellectual hangout, and it has been for decades now. Simple, nice and exuding a lost sophistication that has mutated into a bohemian feel, its marble tables and wooden chairs have witnessed some of the brightest and most stupid intellectual discussions ever taken place in the city. Serving what to me are the best churros(fritters) and hot chocolate in town, the best picture perfect scenario is a cold winter afternoon at La Giralda enjoying fritters and hot coco after a walk along Corrientes for old great masters books.
36 Billiards is a true Billiard house on Mayo Av. This traditional Asturian house were picadas and tablitas, drinks and coffee are the greatest option, is also the best place for billiard lovers or curious interested ones.
On the Upper North side of the city, in Recoleta, La Biela is the aristocratic cafe par excellence, in front of France Park, this has been the house and office extension for the sophisticated and luxury like upper Argentine class.
La Ideal in downtown BA is not only a traditional cafe but it's the best place for traditional tango experiences. Just ask Madonna, she danced there for her musical film Evita and fell deeply in love with the place, the feel and the atmosphere.
Bar El Britanico, overlooking the beautiful Lezama park, is less fancy. Home
to the anonym porte¿os who take pleasure in their daily coffee routine, meeting friends, playing board games and enjoying the broad windows view of the passers by, el Britanico is a San Telmo trademark. Most waiters have been there ever since they wore their first pair of long trousers, know the clientele, but don't believe in the modern world sense of waiter service. They are not nice, but you like them -don't ask me why, that's just what happens.-
In these days unfortunately, the owner of this cafe has set his mind into transforming the beloved coffee house into a hipper and modern like Internet caf¿. When people got this horrible news, the whole San Telmo quarter and the rest of the city alike began to work on a plan to prevent this cultural murder to happen. How many Internet houses does this city need? Do we really have to witness such a cultural atrocity? The answer was a rotund no, so the friends of El Britanico began a campaign. The last word has not been said yet, for they were able to gather over 6,000 signatures in a petition that is going to be addressed to the city Major to work out some kind of deal.
Buenos Aires is so intensely rich in culture and tradition that has raised a strong popular awareness of conservation and love for what makes us be distinctly us. The tradition of cafes is not just about a cup of coffee that can be taken to go or bought elsewhere, it's about the history and stories you go building and creating in that special place of yours. Caf¿s are deep cultural bonds traced between cups of coffee, great conversations, tough personal moments and joyful times that are unique and precious, part of our meaningful moments in life.
And here is a list of these notable Bars to visit when in B’s A’s, if you have the time….
El Hipopotamo
Address: Brasil 401
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4300 8450
El Preferido de Palermo
Address: Jorge Luis Borges 2108
Area: Palermo
(54 11) 4774 6585
El Progreso
Address: Av. Montes de Oca 1700
Area: Constitucion
(54 11) 4301 0671
El Querandi
Address: Peru 302
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 5199 1770
reservas@querandi.com.ar
http://www.elquerandi.com.ar
Florida Garden
Address: Florida 899
Area: Retiro
(54 11) 4312 7902
Iberia
Address: Av. de Mayo 1196
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4381 6300
La Biela
Address: Av Quintana 600
Area: Recoleta
(54 11) 4804 4135
info@labiela.com
http://www.labiela.com
La Buena Medida
Address: Suarez 101
Area: La Boca
(54 11) 4302 0038
La Coru¿a
Address: Bolivar 982/94
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4362 7637
La Embajada
Address: Santiago del Estero 88
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4381 1520
La Giralda
Address: Av Corrientes 1453
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4371 3846
La Perla
Address: Don Pedro de Mendoza 1899
Area: La Boca
(54 11) 4301 2985 / 87
La Puerto Rico
Address: Adolfo Alsina 420
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4331 2215
Las Violetas
Address: Av. Rivadavia 3899
Area: Almagro
(54 11) 4958 7387/ 88
http://www.lasvioletas-cafe.com.ar
London City
Address: Av de Mayo 599
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4342 9057
londoncitybarsrl@ciudad.com.ar
Miramar
Address: Sarandi 1190
Area: San Cristobal
(54 11) 4304 4261
Olimpo
Address: Irigoyen 1491
Area: Villa Luro
Petit Colon
Address: Libertad 505
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4382 7306
Plaza Bar
Address: Florida 1005
Area: Retiro
(54 11) 4318 3000
restorants@marriot.com.ar
http://www.marriotplaza.com.ar
Richmond
Address: Florida 468
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4322 1341
richmond@uolsinectis.com.ar
http://www.restaurant.com.ar/richmond/
Saint Moritz
Address: Esmeralda 894
Area: Retiro
(54 11) 4311 7311
Tokio
Address: Alvarez Jonte 3550
Area: Villa Santa Rita
12 de Octubre
Address: Bulnes 331
Area: Almagro
(54 11) 6327 4594
info@barderoberto.com.ar
http://www.barderoberto.com.ar
36 Billares
Address: Av de Mayo 1265/71
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4381 5696
info@los36billares.com.ar
http://www.los36billares.com.ar
American Bar
Address: Av Roque Saenz Pe¿a 632
Area: Monserrat
Bar Aragon
Address: Av. Alberdi 4899
Area: Villa Luro
Bar de Cao
Address: Av. Independencia 2400
Area: San Cristobal
(54 11) 4943 3694
bardecao@gmail.com
Bar del Hotel Alvear
Address: Av. Alvear 1891
Area: Recoleta
(54 11) 4808 2949
info@alvearpalace.com
http://www.alvearpalace.com
Bar El Esta¿o 1880
Address: Aristobulo del Valle 1100
Area: La Boca
(54 11) 4302 8880
elestano1880@hotmail.com
Bar El Federal
Address: Carlos Calvo 395 / 99
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4300 4313
Bar O Bar
Address: Tres Sargentos 415
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4311 6856
artemercosur@fibertel.com.ar
Bar Oviedo
Address: Av Lisandro de la Torre 2407
Area: Mataderos
(54 11) 4687 8690
Bar Plaza Dorrego
Address: Defensa 1096 / 98
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4361 0141
cyufera@hotmail.com
Bar Seddon
Address: Defensa 695
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4342 3700
Bar Sur
Address: Estados Unidos 299
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4362 6086
info@bar-sur.com.ar
http://www.bar-sur.com.ar
Britanico
Address: Brasil 399
Area: San Telmo
(54 11) 4300 6894
Cafe - Cafe
Address: Ramos Mejia (Est. Retiro Ex. ferrocarril Mitre) 1358
Area: Retiro
(54 11) 4516 0418
retiro@areas.com.ar
Cafe de Garcia
Address: Sanabria 3302
Area: Villa Devoto
(54 11) 4501 5912
garcia@cafedegarcia.com.ar
http://www.cafedegarcia.com.ar
Cafe Don Juan
Address: Camarones 2702
Area: Villa Devoto
(54 11) 4586 0679
Cafe El Banderin
Address: Guardia Vieja 3601
Area: Almagro
(54 11) 4862 7757
info@elbanderin.com.ar
http://www.elbanderin.com.ar
Cafe El Coleccionista
Address: Av. Rivadavia 4929
Area: Caballito
(54 11) 4902 7954
Cafe Esquina Homero Manzi
Address: Av. San Juan 3601
Area: Boedo
(54 11) 4957 8488
info@esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar
http://www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar
Cafe Los Galgos
Address: Av. Callao 501
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4371 3561
Cafe Mar Azul
Address: Tucuman 1700
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4374 0307
Cafe Margot
Address: Boedo 857
Area: Boedo
(54 11) 4957 0001
cafemargot@hotmail.com
Cafe Nostalgia
Address: Soler 3599
Area: Palermo
(54 11) 4963 0903
debetty44@hotmail.com
Cafe Tortoni
Address: Av. De Mayo 825/29
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4342 4328
tortoni@cafetortoni.com.ar
http://www.cafetortoni.com.ar
Claridge
Address: Tucuman 535
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4314 7700 int. 335
inforeservas@claridge.com.ar
http://www.claridge-hotel.com.ar
Clasica y Moderna
Address: Av Callao 892
Area: Recoleta
(54 11) 4812 8707
clasica@clasicaymoderna.com.ar
http://www.clasicaymoderna.com
Confiteria del Hotel Castelar
Address: Av de Mayo 1048
Area: Monserrat
(54 11) 4383 5000 / 9
info@castelarhotel.com.ar
http://www.castelarhotel.com.ar
Confiteria Ideal
Address: Suipacha 384
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 5265 8069
http://www.confiteriaideal.unlugar.com
El Gato Negro
Address: Av Corrientes 1669
Area: San Nicolas
(54 11) 4374 1730
gatone@elgatonegronet.com.ar
For more information contact me, Bob Frassinetti. Buenos Aires Argentina and travelling the south of South America for arts aand antiques, ........
